Just north of the Humboldt Bay village of Trinidad, above one of northern California's most striking rock-strewn coves, this relatively new inn offers breathtaking views from its bedroom windows. Three acres of wooded grounds descend toward the ocean and the sea lions. A wooden deck with deck chairs hidden by shrubbery halfway down the hill provides a joyously peaceful retreat for those wanting to read or just watch the waves roll in.

From the outside, this looks like a fairly modest gray wooden family house. Inside, a large, ultramodern, high-ceilinged living room boasting comfortable sofas is set off against a 1950s-style kitchen. No two bedrooms share the same wall, thus assuring almost complete sound-proofing. The design is the work of owners Francine and Roger Glidden, emigres from San Francisco.

The rooms are spacious and decorated with a minimum of fuss---comfortable beds, large TVs, a couple of easy chairs-with creamy white paint framing the picture-postcard views out the large French windows. Several rooms have private decks, and all have large, luxurious bathrooms and tubs.

The innkeepers keep large trays of cakes (rum cakes, lemon meringues, and others) in the common area, and guests are never lacking for hot coffee or a mug of tea. Breakfasts, cooked by Francine, include plates of steaming dumplings.

6 double rooms with baths. TV and phone in rooms. $110-$180; full breakfast. DC, Mc, V